Doña Lidia looking a little happier, with Israel, one of her recent grandchildren.

The red dots painted on Israel's cheeks are standard in any Bolivian caricature of the Guaraní, but usually they adorn grown women, not babies, and in any case my neighbors dropped the tradition generations ago. (There is a Guaraní community about 60km south of us, Tëtayapi, where women still paint their cheeks every day.) I'm really not sure why his cheeks are painted, but there must have been a kids' party or something: he wasn't alone that day.